

When I saw the brown suede dress with white trim in the Fendi show, my mind reeled back to Joseph Altuzarra’s collection in New York, with suede dresses patched with scissor-cut Swiss dot and other white (or pink) fabrics. It’s always intriguing when two designers come up with a similar look, though plainly Mr. Altuzarra made a statement with his.
The Paris shows have started. An interesting, unhurried Rochas collection from Marco Zanini: I sensed he was doing his version of French sportswear, perhaps inspired by the Rochas legacy. Plain, liquid, beautifully cut dresses in silk cloque that fell just below the knee and were belted; a sporty, sleeveless style in white with a multilayer layered skirt that recalled a tennis dress; some vivid floral prints, and a trim blazer in a pistachio-color fabric shown with silvery tap pants. The colors were almost a separate story: golden beige, lemongrass, mulberry, deep wine, Air France blue. Shoes included a thick-soled sandal in hemp.