We let the style conscious find solutions to their nagging fashion doubts in the company of India's best known designers. FYI arranges for
corporate financier Ranvir D, for whom formal wear is as everyday as a uniform, to meet menswear designer Narendra Kumar and find out where he's going wrong in picking the right suit he rulebook says you shouldn't mix patterns. But today's generation is all about breaking rules. And so, this pairing breaks away from the conventional mould. But make sure you wear a solid coloured tie, and the shade of the tie matches the tone of the suit. Men on the larger side should opt for narrow stripes. A leaner guy can go for broader ones. The current trend is to wear 80s-inspired ties with micro geometric motifs. Skinny ties are fashionable but shouldn't be worn to work. For office, pick a tie that's at least two-and-half inches wide. RD: In a formal suit, how much of the shirt cuff should be exposed from under the jacket sleeve?
NK: The English school of design says a 1/2" band of shirt should be exposed under the jacket sleeve. If the sleeve covers your shirt cuff, it is too long. It should skirt the base of your thumb.
If the armholes are cut too big (most readymade suits follow a standard big armhole theory) the sleeves tend to ride up. If the suit has well-fitted armholes, your sleeves will behave. Like a sari blouse, if the shoulders and armholes are cut to fit; they add comfort to movement.
RD: Is it essential for single-breasted suits to have a vent?
NK: Vents are vertical slit openings that create flaps at the lower back of the suit. They not only provide freedom of movement, especially when you bend or sit down, but define your back too. Without it, the suit will crumble and tug around the hip area. In double-breasted suits, vents are cut symmetrically on both sides of the hip area. Know your suit in 8 easy steps The suit's shoulders should embrace yours; protruding ones make an ugly sight. Starting from the top seam, where the sleeve connects to the body of the suit, all the way down to the cuff, the fabric should form a straight line. An oversized shirt ruins the fit of the suit. Buy a shirt one size smaller than your actual size, and see how it makes the suit look fab! Dig your finger behind your neck into the collar to figure whether it's too tight or loose. A well-fitting suit allows you to unbutton it easily without laying stress on your chest. A Notch lapel is a staple in all business suits. It should wind around your neck, fit snugly, and expose between 1/4 and 1/2 inch of your shirt collar. A deftly tailored suit always takes the shape of your waist when left open or buttoned. This in effect, defines your body, making it look fit. The two-button suit is a classic, a must-have for a smart dresser. Irrespective of the number of buttons, leave the last one unbuttoned. It's stylish. Try the suit in both variations with or without buttoning it, to see how it drapes the body. According to the English school of design, only 1/2" thick band of the shirt's cuff should be exposed beyond the jacket sleeve. The length of the jacket is important. It shouldn't ride above the hips, or hang way below. It should cut the body in half. Your masterji could be a dealmaker. Pick tailored over readymade Not everyone can afford a suit stitched with the precision of the Rock of Eye. But getting a suit stitched to your size is always a better bet than buying one that's mass-produced. When choosing a tailor, pay as much attention to detail as you would while picking a bride. Most tailors/masters follow patterns dating back to the 80s. Give them a miss. Figure why you are buying a suit, and depending on the occasion, pick a one or two-button suit. Never skip the fitting session. Once you've slipped on the jacket, fold your hands in front of your chest to find out whether it sags or tugs at the chest. Pay as much attention to the back of the suit as the front. What to look out for when you pick a suit The Thread Count: It's an often ignored but very significant determinant for a fine suit. If you are buying the fabric, ask the salesman what the thread count of the material is. A low thread count indicates inferior quality. The higher the thread count, the more versatile the fabric. A mass-produced suit, usually a mix of wool and polyester, has a thread count that varies between 90-110. A premium mass brand has a count of 110-120, while a super premium brand has a 130-140 thread count. Luxury brands like Zegna and Brioni have thread counts that vary between 150-180. The number reflects the amount of stitches per one inch of fabric. With the number of stitches, the price of the suit also rises. Specialty fabrics used include mohair, cashmere and linen. Trend today: A 110-120 thread count is good enough for business suits; they don't crush easily. The shoulders: A suit that sits comfortably on the shoulders empowers the wearer. Drooping shoulders indicate a floppy personality. Take along a friend who has a sense of style along while you go shopping. All suits have in-built shoulder padding that give them a shape. Try the suit on with a formal shirt. If you have sloppy shoulders, thicker shoulder pads will add symmetry. Men with broad shoulders should stay away from heavy padded suits. Trend today: Strong shoulders suggest an assertive personality. Rounded, soft drop shoulders are in right now. The sleeves: You don't have to be an android to have arms of varying lengths. With a custom-made suit, you can tailor sleeves to fit each arm. Chunky watches that peep from under the cuff aren't exactly gentleman-like. Make sure the cuff covers the wrist. Hang your hands straight down, cup your fist to figure whether the sleeves are your size. Trend today: Sleeves should touch to the base of the palm, when your arms hang by your side. The Lapel: The folded flaps on the front of a suit are called a lapel. Broad lapels suggest a macho, loud, authoritative demeanour, while narrow lapels imply someone who's fashion forward. The latter shouldn't be worn to work. In a tailored suit, the lapel rolls down naturally, and doesn't need ironing. This is an important element of quality. Lapels come in notch, peak and shawl styles. The Shawl lapel is meant for dinner jackets; not a usual sight on suit jackets. Notch lapels, worn by Sean Connery when he played James Bond, are standard on single-breasted suits. Peak lapels are a common feature on double-breasted suits. Trend today: Lapel size between 3 and 3.5 inches is a safe bet. The Colour: The black suit is equivalent to the Little Black Dress in a woman's closet. It's the safest option. Alternatively, you could invest in navy blue, gray, pinstripe or plaid suit. These stay within the realm of most dress codes and can be jazzed up or down according to occasion. Trend today: When compared to black, grey suits are less daunting and gloomy.